Skins
Finishes
Leather Cleaning
Taking care of Leather
Changing Color
Schott Color and Sizes
Skins
Cowhide - Cowhide is one of the strongest and the most durable leather for
outerwear. As you can tell by the name it comes from hides of cows. Outerwear made from
cowhides on the average can last 20 to 50+ years with proper care. The hide can be dyed in
all different colors and can be finished in glossy, pearl and nude (see finishes). The
only disadvantage is outerwear made with cowhide can be heavy. Over time the porous nature
of leather can accumulated dirt and "gain weight". This can be corrected by
sending the garment to a trusted leather cleaner.
Steerhide- Steerhide is from the steer of the cowherd. Usually the leather is an
extra heavy grade. A couple of year of wearing will break this baby in.
Lambskin - Lambskin is the cream of the leather world. The first thing that comes
to mind when you touch it is how butter soft the skin feel. And for that very reason it is
one of the most popular skins for garments as well as outerwear. Lambskin can come be dyed
into all different colors and in different weights. Because the material is so delicate it
is also prone being torn. Owners who have garments and outerwear made out of lambskin must
be gentle with them.
Suede- Suede starts out like leather but during the tanning process the top layer
of the skin is scraped off to reveal the soft, micro-hair of the skin below.
Pigskin - Pigskin is obviously from a pig. This is an o.k. skin, but as nice as the
others mentioned.
Finishes
Glossy
- The shiniest finish a leather can receive. It can look like patent leather
on a cloudy day. The great advantage for any outerwear with this finish is it will repel
wind, water and dirt. Nothing can harm this except a cat with sharp claw or a teething
puppy.
Pearl/Semi glossy - This finish has been applied with restraint. This finish is a
happy marriage of having protection without you looking like you’re wearing a mirror.
Outerwear with this finish will be able to take wind and some rain. This finish will repel
water but during a heavy downpour the outerwear will absorb water.
Nude/Natural/Buff- There is no, if little, finish on the leather. Without any
finish the leather is prone to whatever condition nature and man will hand out.
Leather Cleaning
The Cleaning Process
Small areas can be cleaned at home using a product designed to clean leather such as
Lexol’s Leather Cleaner. Don't use outdated leather care products. Saddle soap, mink
oil, shoe cream and other cleaning products may have worked years ago can damage today's
leather. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Consult a
professional leather cleaner for larger areas or when the whole garment needs to be
cleaned.
Because the cleaning process is a chemical process here are some things you should
know:
- Cleaning will dry out the leather.
- Clean your outerwear when it needs to be cleaned, we recommend once every 2 years (based
on Midwest seasons).
- Moisturizer: because the cleaning process is a chemical process the leather will feel
stiff and drier. We recommend using a moisturizer like Lexol. Always test any moisturizer
or conditioner on an area that cannot be seen.
Cleaning Stains
Below are some common stains and the methods for dealing with them. We can’t
guarantee these methods will completely remove a stain, but they are your best defense. If
you have any questions, check with your professional leather cleaner or email us at:
leo@leosleather.com
Ink: this is permanent stain cannot be removed through cleaning.
Pet urine: this stain will have a reaction with the cleaning chemical and will burn
the leather. If the urine is spotted early, wipe the remainder with a damp cloth. Try to
flush the urine out with water via a damp cloth. Use an absorbent towel to blot the area
frequently.
Water: pure H2O will not hurt leather but depending on the finish it
will be absorbed into the leather pores. This might make the garment stiff. The best
advice is wearing it. By wearing it, you will work the garment and bring the softness
back.
Rain: If you get caught in the rain, dry the garment with a towel or soft cloth
when you get home. Do not hang it near a source of heat. This will not speed up the drying
process but may damage the leather.
Water spots: most water spots can be removed when the garment or
outerwear is professionally cleaned.
Taking care of your Leather
Dogs and Cats
- The most harmful thing to leather are cat and dog’s claws and
teeth. Cats and dogs love to chew on leather and claw them. Love your pets but keep them
away from the leathers.
Sun - those UV ray can be also harmful to the leather you love. Do not leave your
leather in a hot sunny car. The sun will fade the color and dry the leather out.
Rips & Tears –
Smoke smell –
Storage - Leather likes to breathe, it is skin. Do not store leather in a plastic
bag. It you want to protect it from dust try a cloth garment bag or an old sheet. Store
leather in a cool dry location during the time your not wearing it. Mold and mildew will
grow on the leather if the conditions are too damp.
Hangers - Not all hangers are alike. Leather outerwear is heavy,
use a sturdy hanger. Leather also will stretch so be careful about using a steel hanger.
We recommend a quality suit hanger with wide shoulder supports.
Changing color
The color dying process is part of the tanning process. During the tanning process, the
leather is cleaned then it is cured. The color is added and then the finish is applied.
(This is not recommended for Suede)
Re-dying/changing color- because the color is added before the finish, changing color
is not factory finish. Leather can be re-dyed through your cleaners, it is not recommend
to change from color to color if the leather has a glossy finish. It can be done but the
new color will wear in the area’s of the garment where there is a natural fold from
wear. (This is not recommended for Suede)
